I woke up early in the morning to travel to Pindi Gheb to witness a tent pegging event, which was also linked to the book launch of One Man & His Horse on Malik Prince Atta Muhammad Khan. My mind wandered back to the old days when going to Pindi Gheb was a real hassle. I had been invited by an old school friend, Malik Azam Khan Gheba. As I set off, I realized how the new DI Khan route has transformed the region. Where we once went shikar along Kala Chitta and Fateh Jhang, the motorway now cuts through, making it possible to reach Pindi Gheb within an hour from the interchange. But mind you, that’s without a stopover, which many travellers still prefer.
I call it “Gheba Territory” because of its rich history. Traditional Boski, proud pug and kulla, and body-fitted waistcoats are the hallmark of the area and its sporting culture. I happened to be in Kot Fateh last year, and though the grandeur of Malik Atta’s house and stable is not the same since his passing, it remains a remarkable tourist attraction. The Ghebas have a deep and somewhat debated genealogy, with some tracing their roots to Rai Shankar, others to the Tiwanas and Sials, some to the Barlas Mughals, and others to the Jodhras and Alpials. The tribe today is spread between the Khari Murat Range and Kala Chitta, largely in Attock and parts of Pindi.
Being a Khattar myself, from the banks of the Indus and both sides of the Kala Chitta range, I have close ties with overlapping tribes, especially around Fateh Jhang. With the new airport nearby, the area is transforming rapidly. My only hope is that it doesn’t turn into just another township, as land is being sold at a fast pace.
As we approached Prince Malik Atta Stadium, a community-driven effort, we could see tents from afar, parking spaces, and horses lined up along the hillsides, all beautifully decorated.
Proud horsemen and their grooms were preparing for the day. We were warmly welcomed at the arena, where a large crowd had already gathered early in the morning to watch the event unfold until evening.
The runs had already begun, and I was told the traditional rules still apply: it’s not just about pegging but also the horse’s speed, posture, and style. Around 200 horsemen were participating, from Bahawalpur to Jhang and Attock, and I was pleasantly surprised to see riders from Hoti Mardan and Orakzai as well.
On asking further, I learned that the event is held regularly and managed mostly through self-help. There were no flashy posters or big sponsors. Food and team arrangements were coordinated by a few local notables, and the horses were managed overnight at a nearby site. I asked the hosts why, despite such a fantastic event that even draws viewers from abroad, they don’t promote it more actively to attract foreigners, especially from Islamabad. Malik Atta himself had drawn international attention, traveling to the US, South Africa, and Europe to promote tent pegging.
Horse breeding and veterinary support remain major challenges. In the past, local veterinary facilities were strong, even allowing for semen placement, but now teams must bear heavy costs to bring vets from Sargodha. A few major melas like this one deserve special attention and support to expand to places like Attock, Chakwal, Jhang, and F-9 Islamabad. The Government of Punjab should step in to help promote and sustain these events. Locals are already encouraged by the revival of the Horse and Cattle Show in Lahore. This sport is a tremendous tourism attraction, both for domestic and international visitors. Traditionally male-dominated, more women are now participating too, which opens opportunities to grow the sport while respecting cultural norms.
It was heartening to see so many young people involved. Tent pegging is not just a sport but a proud hobby and cultural legacy. With proper infrastructure like stables, spectator facilities, and team amenities, this could become a major tourism product. It was a day well spent, and I returned to Islamabad inspired by the energy and heritage of the Gheba territory.
Regards
MD Green Tourism
Hassan
