On a chilly morning in Lepa, we started the day early! I think we could not do justice to Lepa as we reached almost at dusk. I decided to explore more before travelling to Bagh. We left for one of the last dwellings before India starts. Lepa is a beautiful valley, I would say it maintains its originality and does not look very prosperous. The valley has a lot of springs and one can hear the gushing sound almost as you travel. Shamsabari ridge towards the north bifurcates it with Kishenganga, which we call Neelum. This water flow is dominating. The population of Lepa is not much, I believe 75K, maybe this is one reason that they have basic amenities. There are two hydro plants and I was told that electricity issues become serious in winter. As you move on the road, typical Kashmiri wooden houses spread apart are in plenty, they are very synonymous with Neelum. Lepa takes a lot of pride in its paddy fields but for outsiders it’s a few hundred kanals of plantation. Lepa is also famous for small apples, tender in texture. As we moved deep into the valley it was pleasant to see thick jungle. At one point I could not help stopping at a monument of martyrs including Major Aziz SJ who laid down their lives for Lepa. After a small stopover we headed to Mandar Kulli. Locals told me it is ideal for skiing in winter. It took us 30 minutes to reach a beautiful fairy land, a meadow with tall juniper trees. The place is very eye-catching. I would not prefer it as a ski place as a lot of trees would have to be cut, but it is an ideal camping site. We figured out a few guest houses and motels, though very few in number. We were told there is a lot of rush of tourists here in peak season. I would say we should construct less in Lepa, let it remain as it is, but provide camping areas and assist locals in the concept of Airbnb. This is the most suitable proposition, otherwise the valley will be spoiled. A local told us that there is a 5-storey house and many tourists go to see it. We could not resist and went. A typical Kashmiri house built of wood, with Kashmiri crafts and shallow alleys and verandas.
Our next destination was Chakkar. We took three hours to reach back on Chakothi Road and crossed Hatian Bala. We were in search of a restroom and even could not find one at petrol pumps. Crossing Hatian Bala we travelled on the road leading back to Muzaffarabad and after 10 kms turned west on the road leading to Chakkar. In 40 minutes we were in Chakkar Bazar, packed as no parking is available. I could not resist and bought Kashmiri Kukchas; the road is also narrow and in fair condition. We hit Chakkar tourism rest house, a big property with 8 rooms. We made all effort to find the curator but could only find a buffalo, that too an unfriendly one. It is in quite a bad shape. I always feel privatisation of these properties is the best model. It was almost 1300 hrs so we moved on the same road, narrow and ascending. We started feeling the breeze as Chakkar was 27 degrees. Pine trees appeared, and in another half an hour conifers started. As we headed to Sudan Galli the forest became thick! One thing I have noticed in AJK was that traffic is rough with no tourist police, probably there are no tourists. In two hours from Chakothi Road we were at Sudan Galli, a beautiful place resembling some places in Galiat but very basic. I think if developed into a reasonable place it will attract tourists. We had a cup of tea. Locals told us that it gets 3–4 feet of snow and the road is approachable from Bagh but cars skid. We could see Ganga Choti. After a & break we left for Ganga Choti. Sudan Galli is at approx. 7,500 ft and Ganga Choti at 10,200 ft. We saw a couple of cars going to Ganga. The road is new and beautifully swirls in forest, very scenic. As we reached the top, it is a major pasture and ideal for a ski resort as it is natural. No huts are found but along the road there are a lot of ugly kiosks and tents. When you see them from a distance they look nice but as you approach they are worn out and misfit. Immediately one thinks of a cable car and a nice ski restaurant on top! The place is beautiful and gets 7–8 feet of snow. I learnt another road has also been built, I think it spoils the place. The requirement is to develop in style and aesthetically otherwise we will spoil it.
We descended this time towards Bagh, the road broadens and improves. Oh my God! Bagh has spread widely. We went through the Bagh Bazar and it was a mess. I believe in mountains all bazaars are on main arteries, and if not planned, they will become choke points. The same we experienced in Hatian Bala and Garhi Dupata. If we have to develop our tourist destinations, regulations have to be enforced.
District Bagh is ideally placed to attract tourists provided we create a centre of excellence! I must say so far I have not seen hospitality-related infrastructure, perhaps that is why it has a lot of potential. No 3-star or above hotels, no good restaurants and not even decent cafes. I would like to highlight here that as per AJK laws outsiders cannot buy land unlike in GB. Actually, I am not against this as maybe this is one reason why AJK seems better preserved, so development has to be planned by government but without PPP it’s not possible. Another serious observation I have is regarding tour operators and the local community. GB has learnt this art and AJK needs to follow. Yes, there are roads but some tourism arteries have to be developed if we want to bring high-end tourism otherwise it will be only local tourists. Do we want AJK to be subject to NOC clearance is something which needs discussion. As I understand AJK more, Inshallah I will work on these aspects with the AJK government.
MD Green Tourism
Hassan
