Started the day with a military function, it’s amazing when veterans are called, they travel far away at their own expense to participate, old memories are revived and willing to fight even now. All ranks together make the event more akin to a family! There is no negative news or media discussion but purely only one motivation and that is Pakistan, this time in Bahawalpur made it more nostalgic to Sandoor, many complaining why were we not called while we are enlisted as reservists. I saw children born and grown up, many lady-wives whose husbands are deployed as far as Balochistan living with children and when asked when hubby was back, some spark in eyes that he will be coming next month and so forth. In the evening we had a dinner in majestic Noor Mahal. Usually there is an impression that it is meant for Army but it’s open for all and its light and sound show is a wonderful experience, must see once in a lifetime. Bahawalpur is too iconic to be written about so will write on it separately.
In the morning we decided to leave early, a young Captain Waqar was there to see me off, he offered if he can accompany me. Initially, I thought to let him go but then I allowed him, the basic idea was to make him see. My experiment was correct and he enjoyed traveling with me, I am sure he will pick up! A day before someone had mentioned a Buddhist Stupa outside Bahawalpur. I decided to track it, it’s around 25 km outside Bahawalpur on Ahmedpur East road, it’s called Sui Vihara. As we approached the link road which is a nice farm-to-market road, did not find any marking, about two km west we find the road ends into a graveyard. I could make a high structure, we dismounted and walked through this majestic mud structure around 30-40 feet high with sort of pigeon holes. My research says that some Western organizations have done some excavation here in 2011–12. This is in total neglect now and with weather changes, if not preserved now its life can’t be more than 2-3 years. I think will write from Green Tourism to Government of Punjab Archaeology to save it. This is an 11 AD stupa as per legend constructed by Kashaika princess in Kashan period. I heard there is some monastery nearby but could not find one, I did see a ziarat at nearby distance and I noticed the graveyard is quite big compared to less population around. As we traversed around I found a soul and went to him and started chatting. He was unable to relate it to any period but said it is very old, he also said its destruction is contributed to people who dug it to find khazana/ gold. He was an interesting man, he said this place has such a big snake that people get faint seeing it. He also told me from a distance from the place there is a dera which is linked to the dera which has Jin, it did not strike me then but later it came to my mind maybe that was the monastery. I asked him what was he doing here in wilderness and he pointed out to the ziarat and said this ziarat belongs to Rasool Pak PBUH servant and his disciples! I was shocked, Hazrat Ghulam Abbas Borkha Posh. I immediately went to the place and prayed, I kept relating the date of birth with Prophet PBUH but I think needs some more research. I think it was good exploration, about which I did not know.
Our next stop was our actual destination Sadiq Garh Palace. A place which can be called Pakistan’s biggest neglect! Since becoming MD I have been requesting everyone if Rajasthani Palaces in India can be converted into 7 star why not Sadiqgarh, understandably this is under litigation amongst family but let the property remain with them but some understanding to develop for sake of Nawab Sahib Nawab Sadiq IV who has done so much for Pakistan let it be a gift from state of Pakistan to him RIP. It also reminds me of Marri of Nawab Muhammad Hyat Khan in Wah built little earlier timeframe and under same family issue; so I do understand; the 1989 Antiquity Act clearly specifies it as a state responsible property. As we cross into Dera Nawab on N5 and turn a nice road leads you to walls of palace not more than 15 minutes and from Bahawalpur 1:15 minutes. I could not hold myself when I entered the long pathway inside thinking this has so much resemblance to Palaces I have seen in Vienna, Innsbruck, Germany, and Italy. The octagonal centre dome and smaller side domes with Roman pillars and sand work, it’s a state of the art and total neglect. Being related to tourism I also felt ashamed when I was being given a round I had more knowledge about it and was always relating its architecture to sometime Dolmabache to sometime to Schoenbrunn! It has spread of around 125 acres with 50 feet high and one of biggest places in South Asia, it took 13 years to be constructed starting 1882 by Italian Architect while many items like tiles and washroom fittings were European from Belgium and elsewhere. It has two subsidiary palaces like Rahat and Mubarak Mehal linked through tunnels. It was a luxury palace with Darbar Hall, dining rooms, private power house, a beautiful mosque, an exchange, a huge basement with tunnels, armory, safe room and 128 rooms! I could see some classic mosaics, murals, roofs and tiles! Made out of putty with no cement and wood retains the texture. As you enter it has a double roof Darbar Hall and in verandah balconies, I almost saw everything and all this time was sobbing. In and I came out in baradari looking at the majestic building and wondering how to fix it. Many multinational and hotel chains have shown desire to redo this, we must! I can’t believe people like Nawab Salahuddin Sahib a respected figure will disagree and there can’t be a solution. Many people ask me about Southern Punjab tourism I always say convert Sadiqgarh into a 7 star and link Bahawalpur airport internationally you would not require to do anything to project all will happen at its own! Alas —- When I was leaving the Palace saw Victorian light posts antique in itself reminds me of a verse نرگس اپنی بینوری پہ کیوں روتی ہے.
Left for Fort Derawar, I had mentioned earlier of my stay in desert in 2002-3. Being a mechanised officer we love desert. But I could recall the moment we were out of Dera Nawab Sahib (DNS) desert used to start Bari Wala Toba and Dori Wala Toba, I was amazed to see the green belt had moved forward, some beautiful lands even citrus orchards, maize, paddy, cotton and veggies my God how much water can make difference! Wish we understand importance of Cholistan Canal and prosperity it can bring to area. Derawar fort is around 40 km on a fairly good road, takes around 35 minutes and majestic fort is visible with its 40 bastions and 15000 m wall at times standing as tall as 30 m, from a distance you can’t miss it. As we traverse to enter I knew I am coming here after 23 years and definitely good work has gone in – its entrance is like Lahore fort as we enter one could find a lot of work being done but I think only outside and a corner called baradari has been restored. We climbed up the baradari which gives good view of Cholistan, enjoying the view reminded me of grandeur of Fort. It was built along Hakra River in 858 by Rajputs of Bhati Kingdom and took its name from Dera Rawal, one of rulers, and became Derawar as slang. This was taken over later by Abbasi Nawabs in the 18th century! It was at crossroads of trade and war, Hakra River has a line of forts like Mujgarh, Khangarh, Islamgarh, Mehargarh imagine if all these are fixed can make a chain in Cholistan. It’s on UNESCO list and needs to be added.
As we moved out of fort you can’t avoid a beautiful structure Derawar Mosque. Built in beautiful white marble, it is a replica of Moti Mosque of Red Fort. Strangely someone has added aluminium doors to it inside also I believe the murals have been whitewashed. After a brief visit to mosque I left for Graveyard of Abbasia, as I learnt more about them and services of Nawab Sadiq Abbasi we must pay our respect to this great man who only did not join Pakistan but helped Pakistan and Quaid to bear many expenses and properties dedicated to Pakistan. It’s like a Necropolis peaceful and prominent, most of ladies’ graves are in tombs and men mostly outside less the main Nawabs inside the main building. We also saw grave of Nawab Sadiq Abbasi’s English wife who is buried outside the building and it is said she requested to be buried in Nawab Sahib’s feet. As I came outside I found some local children, went to them, one girl was selling homemade bags, I purchased two and boys were carrying a stick and ball for cricket, I gave them some money to buy a bat. I personally feel we need to develop Airbnb concept in these areas and will pick tourism. On way back we stopped at TDCP motel, such a big infrastructure with pagodas and underutilized, even some work was going on now. I think main issue is to settle the ecosystem of tourism, the people are here and infrastructure will meet the requirement, what we are trying to do is build infrastructure to get tourists. Once in Derawar you can’t miss a ziarat of four companions of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). I need to research and read more, after Hazri we went to a viewpoint. The majestic Derawar can be seen and unfortunately I could see two structures, a water tank and communication tower now mar its silhouette—something must be done. In end looking at Cholistan what if Jaisalmer is directly connected to Derawar.
We had already spent over four hours traveling, had to hit Islamabad, in another two hours we got on Multan Sukkur motorway and had to stop at Multan to give some energy to my driver, we had dal together and reached Bhera our next stop. I saw a wonderful Multani Blue Pottery shop, I wonder why can’t we have this at our airports. Bhera is a lively stop, you find all classes of people but what made me enjoy was Sikhs enjoying Bhera, a lot of them amassing for Baba Guru Nanak Birth at Nankana Sahib. Thirteen hours traveling but an enjoyable day, will be reaching Islamabad Insh Allah.
LG Hassan (R)
MD Green Tourism
