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Field notes & stories

Dispatches from the road, culture, heritage, and the slow craft of travelling Pakistan gently.

A Dark Sky Over Naltar

Field notes · Editor's pick

A Dark Sky Over Naltar

Above the tree line, the Milky Way still casts a shadow. A night spent under one of the last truly dark skies in the northern valleys.

Imran Yusuf · 6 min read

Fading Art of sculpture making in Taxila

Heritage

Fading Art of sculpture making in Taxila

On a beautiful spring morning, I requested Gandhara Resource Centre a local organization working for preservation & p...

4 min read

Air Safari Balochistan - Quetta to Taftan

Guides

Air Safari Balochistan - Quetta to Taftan

It seems our mind is stuck with Gilgit Baltistan when we listen to the word Air Safari! Yes we are blessed. But havin...

6 min read

Travelogue: Gwadar

Guides

Travelogue: Gwadar

Whenever I mention that I am travelling to Balochistan, the most common response I receive is: “Be safe.” Such is the...

11 min read

Memory Lane - Cecil Murree

Heritage

Memory Lane - Cecil Murree

I happened to walk into Cecil Murree for a cup of coffee after many years, and it instantly brought back vivid memori...

6 min read

Bridging Time: My Journey to Khushal Garh & Karak

Heritage

Bridging Time: My Journey to Khushal Garh & Karak

I happened to travel to District Karak lately, which revived many old memories.

3 min read

Naran

Eco & nature

Naran

A bright sunny day in Islamabad, we set off for Naran for the opening of GreenPak Riverfront Resort. Commonly known a...

7 min read

Travelogue: Sadiq Garh Palace and Fort Derawar

Heritage

Travelogue: Sadiq Garh Palace and Fort Derawar

Started the day with a military function, it’s amazing when veterans are called, they travel far away at their own ex...

3 min read

Uch Sharīf

Heritage

Uch Sharīf

When I got up early morning, I knew it would be a long day, so pushed out early after Fajr prayers. As I moved out of...

4 min read

Lipa Valley

Eco & nature

Lipa Valley

Lately PM has emphasised on tourism in AJK and GB. I have fond memories of Kashmir so took to the road to see some do...

3 min read

8 of the Best Places to Go in Pakistan

Guides

8 of the Best Places to Go in Pakistan

From the Karakoram to the Makran coast, where to begin a first trip.

9 min read

Walking Lahore's Walled City

Heritage

Walking Lahore's Walled City

Through Delhi Gate at dawn, before the bazaars wake.

8 min read

Why Deosai Goes Quiet in Winter

Eco & nature

Why Deosai Goes Quiet in Winter

The 'land of giants' empties as the brown bears den down.

5 min read

Spring with the Kalasha

Culture

Spring with the Kalasha

The Chilam Joshi festival in the valleys of Chitral.

7 min read

The Long Walk to Concordia

Mountaineering

The Long Walk to Concordia

Twelve days to the throne room of the mountain gods.

11 min read

Apricot Season in Hunza

Field notes

Apricot Season in Hunza

When the orchards turn and the rooftops fill with fruit.

4 min read

Polo, the Way It Began

Culture

Polo, the Way It Began

Shandur's free-style game at the world's highest ground.

6 min read