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Field notes & stories
Dispatches from the road, culture, heritage, and the slow craft of travelling Pakistan gently.

Field notes · Editor's pick
A Dark Sky Over Naltar
Above the tree line, the Milky Way still casts a shadow. A night spent under one of the last truly dark skies in the northern valleys.
Imran Yusuf · 6 min read

Heritage
Fading Art of sculpture making in Taxila
On a beautiful spring morning, I requested Gandhara Resource Centre a local organization working for preservation & p...
4 min read

Guides
Air Safari Balochistan - Quetta to Taftan
It seems our mind is stuck with Gilgit Baltistan when we listen to the word Air Safari! Yes we are blessed. But havin...
6 min read

Guides
Travelogue: Gwadar
Whenever I mention that I am travelling to Balochistan, the most common response I receive is: “Be safe.” Such is the...
11 min read

Heritage
Memory Lane - Cecil Murree
I happened to walk into Cecil Murree for a cup of coffee after many years, and it instantly brought back vivid memori...
6 min read

Heritage
Bridging Time: My Journey to Khushal Garh & Karak
I happened to travel to District Karak lately, which revived many old memories.
3 min read

Eco & nature
Naran
A bright sunny day in Islamabad, we set off for Naran for the opening of GreenPak Riverfront Resort. Commonly known a...
7 min read

Heritage
Travelogue: Sadiq Garh Palace and Fort Derawar
Started the day with a military function, it’s amazing when veterans are called, they travel far away at their own ex...
3 min read

Heritage
Uch Sharīf
When I got up early morning, I knew it would be a long day, so pushed out early after Fajr prayers. As I moved out of...
4 min read

Eco & nature
Lipa Valley
Lately PM has emphasised on tourism in AJK and GB. I have fond memories of Kashmir so took to the road to see some do...
3 min read

Guides
8 of the Best Places to Go in Pakistan
From the Karakoram to the Makran coast, where to begin a first trip.
9 min read

Heritage
Walking Lahore's Walled City
Through Delhi Gate at dawn, before the bazaars wake.
8 min read

Eco & nature
Why Deosai Goes Quiet in Winter
The 'land of giants' empties as the brown bears den down.
5 min read

Culture
Spring with the Kalasha
The Chilam Joshi festival in the valleys of Chitral.
7 min read

Mountaineering
The Long Walk to Concordia
Twelve days to the throne room of the mountain gods.
11 min read

Field notes
Apricot Season in Hunza
When the orchards turn and the rooftops fill with fruit.
4 min read

Culture
Polo, the Way It Began
Shandur's free-style game at the world's highest ground.
6 min read

